BILLIE EILISH DEBUTS NEW SANDY BLONDE HAIR AND MUST-HAVE LOOK FOR SPRING

The singer says goodbye to her dark hair and green roots with a hair transformation.

Billie Eilish nearly sent Instagram into meltdown when she posted a picture of her new yellow-blonde hair with the caption “Pinch me” and got a record one million likes in just 6 minutes. Just a few days before, she appeared at the 2021 Grammys with her signature look of vibrant black hair and green roots before stunning us all with the reveal of her hair transformation – a new sandy blonde colour, layered haircut and Shag fringe.

Billie has never been shy with changing up her hair and, throughout the years, we’ve seen her experiment with a variety of shades, including steel blue, dark blonde, soft brunette and metallic silver, as well as neon green hair.

But will images of Billie Eilish and her sunny, sandy blonde be the colour clients across the world will be bringing to their colourists in the coming weeks? And if that is the new trend, are you prepared for this colour change?

Because, of course, it’s important clients are aware of the key factors if wanting to go from black or brunette to blonde. As professionals, we know the reality – this new look didn’t just happen in 24 hours! There are stages required to make such a drastic hair colour change, and that doesn’t just involve bleaching and toning but also ensuring the hair retains its condition and is protected from future damage.

We spoke to TIGI Education Specialist, Lucy Hicks – who admits to being a big fan of Billie’s new look – to see what she’d advise for clients wanting to make a colour change.

What are the key points hairdressers should bear in mind when doing a consultation?

Firstly, I want to say this wasn’t an overnight transformation so, hairdressers of the world, DO NOT PANIC!

Key points when going into any consultation is to:

  • Listen. Pay attention to what your client is saying.
  • Understand the history of the hair. We would do this by carrying out relevant tests such as porosity, elasticity and incompatibility. We can’t always see everything on the hair so this will help us guide our client in the right direction towards a realistic hair result.
  • Respect the hair. DO NOT PUSH THE HAIR! Remember, it’s not about your client getting the result they would like if it results in significant damage to the hair.
  • Think of the long game. How will your actions during the first stage of the transformation impact your client six months down the line?
  • Correct product choice. Don’t forget, when lifting ‘low and slow’, lift hair using low activators and pre-lighteners; this will retain the hair integrity while removing level and tone.
  • Under-promise and over-deliver. Be realistic and share your knowledge.
  • Explain to your client their colour commitment. For example, will they need to return every six months or six weeks for a colour top-up?
  • Use pictures to ensure you and your client are on the same page. Confirm what your end result will be.
  • Aftercare in any colour corrections. Your client will need to look after their hair condition following the service, so should use a hair repair system such as TIGI Copyright Repair Shampoo & Conditioner and Repair Booster.

Proper aftercare is essential following a colour change.

What process is needed to take the hair from very dark to blonde?

The process is lightening! The first step is to remove level and tone, addressing the mid-lengths and ends first to remove the black, then a cleanse to remove the acid green hues. That wouldn’t be complete in one hairdresser visit! Make sure your client understands that. I would imagine it was about five or six sessions to get Billie where she needed to be.

What products would you recommend for the hair lightening process?

When it comes to Colour Correction, TIGI has three essential hero products.

Firstly, the newly reformulated True Light White is a must. It now offers up to 8 levels of lift and contains a Cuti-plex complex to look after and support the hair strength throughout the lifting process. It also leaves the outside of the hair feeling and looking fantastic, meaning you don’t have to add anything to TIGI pre-lighteners to look after the hair through the lifting process.

Then there’s the salon hero treatment, TIGI Copyright SOS Extreme Recovery! This is vital when conducting colour correction and is the perfect treatment before, during and after! Containing Keratin, Elastin, Marine Collagen Amino Acids and Black Rice Proteins, it can replace one year’s worth of lost keratin from the hair in one application, which adds support and stops breakage.

Why is that important? Because when you lift the hair, you ‘take’ away from it, so it’s important to replace the keratin and support the hair to ‘give’ back. That is why SOS will always be my number 1 treatment.

Then our third must-have is TIGI Copyright Colour Gloss! It’s great to help with neutralising and toning after the hair has been lifted. Ammonia-free, delicate and conditioning, you can create bespoke shades for your client. It’s ALWAYS my go-to for creating the perfect hue after any colour correction service.

Select the right products to strengthen and protect hair during the service.

What about the toning?

After lifting the hair, my advice for toning is:

Always tone on the level you are working on. If you have lifted hair to a yellow undertone (which represents a level 8), you need to tone on a level 8. Billie’s hairdresser would have lifted to a level 10, so, visually, you would be looking for a very pale yellow undertone to give the beautiful soft golden sand colour.

Use the correct sequence of the application when applying a toner to the hair. The hair towards the mid-lengths and ends is usual more sensitised and porous and will absorb or ‘grab’ the formulation, so always apply to the more porous areas last.

Can you suggest any formulas for blonde hair like Billie’s?

I can! I would suggest lifting the hair to a level 10, then tone with this Soft Golden Sand formula using TIGI Copyright Colour.

Soft Golden Sand
65g Gloss 10/03
5g Gloss 8/34
105g Activator 5vol/1.5%

What about aftercare when taking clients from brunette to blonde?

I would ALWAYS recommend aftercare to any colour service. The reason we do this is to:

  • Look after the hair
  • Look after the colour
  • Keep condition
  • Help to replace what we have taken from the hair
  • Keep hair strong and colourable

In Billie’s case, I would recommend the following TIGI Copyright take-home system:

I would explain to my client the benefits of using these, but I would also explain what will happen if they do not follow a proper at-home care regime. That might be:

  • A quick fade of hair tone
  • No upkeep of hair integrity
  • Hair will become more damaged

Any other advice for hairdressers with clients wanting a dramatic hair change?

It’s important to remember, the time taken and the financial cost to the client is high! In my opinion, this would have been done over a series of sessions, over weeks, maybe even months!

So, this would highlight the question: “why didn’t anyone see Billie with unevenly lifted hair?” Simple answer – she wore a wig! The wig had been pre-coloured to match Billie’s previous hair. A big shout out to Billie and her stylist for the honesty shown in terms of the wig! Hairdressers of the world can now breathe easy with the understanding that you can’t go from black to blonde overnight!

One thing is for sure, after a year of many people hiding their hair, we predict there will be a lot of clients out there just longing to make a strong, personal statement, and Billie Eilish could be the style icon.

RECOMMENDED LEARNING

Colour Technique: Valley Girl Blonde

Watch the global bleach and tone technique.

Colour Technique: Global Pre-Lighten & Tone

Perfect your lighten and tone technique with this tutorial.

TIGI Copyright Colour True Light

Transform your clients with the True Light range.

If your clients are looking to make a colour change, protect their hair with TIGI Copyright Colour and Care. Find out more at www.tigi.com or contact us to become a stockist.