“Many clients are keen to experiment with their colour these days and metallic shades are an excellent way to inspire them” says Kerrie O’Reilly, TIGI European Technical Director. “There’s a shade to suit anyone and the Copyright Colour range allows you to bespoke the right metallic to suit your client”.
We ask Kerrie to share her favourite toning formulas and secrets to creating beautiful metallic shades.
Make sure to always achieve the correct undertone. If you want to create a silver metallic tone, ensure you first lift the hair to a level 10 to get a very pale yellow. If the right undertone isn’t achieved before you apply a cool shade, the toner will work to neutralise the warmth in the undertone, rather than enhancing your metallic fashion shade. Essentially, the darker your undertone is, the less clean and vibrant your metallic colour will be.
Fight the fear! Don’t be afraid of working with levels on either end of the spectrum to create your metallic hair colour. For example, if you want to achieve a deep slate shade, think about using higher levels to neutralise your lighter canvas and small amounts of deeper colours to create drama.
Visualise dropping a dot of black paint into white paint; it will create a light grey colour. The more black you add, the deeper and more intense the grey will become.
For example, if you mix 50g Gloss 10/28 + 3g Gloss 3/0 on a client with a level 10, it will create a smokey grey tone.
It’s not as scary it seems. Just start with small amounts of the deeper colour and add to it as you build your confidence.
"Don't be afraid to simplify! Just because you want to achieve something creative, doesn't mean you have to mix many shades together"
Think of the hair as your creative canvas. Firstly, think about how you need to neutralise and secondly, what you need to add to create the shade you want to see.
For example, if you are working on a very pale yellow, and want to create a very light silver hair colour, the first step is to neutralise the unwanted yellow hue using a violet tone, and then to incorporate a silver tone (e.g. to create a Calibrated Ash apply Gloss 10/28).
Just because you want to achieve something creative, doesn’t mean you need to mix lots of shades together. Sometimes keeping it simple is the most effective. In fact, if you use too many different shades, it can create a tertiary colour. We never recommend intermixing three or four shades, unless there is a logical and technical reason.
Kerrie shares her favourite toning formulas for creating commercial to creative metallic hair colours.